I love the way a touch of residual heightens not only the supple texture of the palate but also the white lily floral lift and fragrant purity of Clare Valley Riesling. The acidity of the cool 2023 season delivers such cut and freshness as to erase any sense of sweetness. An enticing Alea of pure granny smith apple, lime and lemon allure.

I’m sure that Grosset’s Alea Riesling has always been a serious wine, but in the glass it’s more serious than ever, if that makes sense. There’s excellent intensity here. There’s a slip of fruit sweetness but it’s gentle and slight, the clearer message one of crisp green apples, lime, minerals and tonic-like herbs. I get the feeling that Alea has changed tack slightly, become drier, more mineral, less grapey. I’m a fan. This is very good.